Half Bound Book

After attempting several quatre-bound and single section books at home, I attended a bookbinding course held in Madingly Hall, Cambridge by Helen Perry.

Preparing the signatures

Using 120 gsm paper, I first established the grain direction and ensured that the paper was cut with the grain going from the head of the book down the spine. Using a bone folder, I then folded the paper into 5 signatures of 5 pages each.

Once each signature was folded, I assembled them into a book block and signed the folded edge so that I would be able to re-assemble them into the correct order later.

I then used one of my cut pages as a template to cut my end papers. Since this was hand-made paper, grain direction was not an issue, but I did make sure that the pattern was facing the right way round. I cut the end papers slightly wide since I could trim them once adding the to the assembled book block.

A5 pages = 29.4 cm wide x 21 cm high

A6 pages = 20.9 cm wide x 14.9 cm high

Punching template

I then made a punching template with 8 holes: two for kettle stitches approx 1.5 cm from each end and then 3 sets of 2 holes about 1.5 cm apart spaced evenly along the spine for the French link stitch. I marked the top of the template and then punched holes in each signature with an awl. I then lay out the signatures in order, making sure that the tops of each section were in the same direction and that the signature on the folded edge aligned.

Sewing the book block

I threaded my needle using a bookbinder's knot and picked up the first signature with the spine holes facing me. Placing my hand in the centre fold, I pushed the need from the outside, entering the 1st hole, leaving a tail and exited out the second hole. Using basic running stitch, I continued until the first signature was complete.

Bringing the second signature on top of the first, I sewed into the 8th hole, exiting at the 7th. I then brought my needle underneath the thread of the lower section before going into the 6th hole, completing the first French link stitch. I continued with this until I reached the end of the signature. I kept going with the remaining signatures, making sure to flatten the sewn edge with a bone folder to ensure strong creases. By the time I got to the 8th hole of the 3rd signature, I made my first kettle stitch, and then at the end of each row from there on.

Stabilising the book block

I cut a piece of magazine paper in half and folded the long edge down. I opened the 1st signature and ran a fine line of glue about 2mm wide along the spine edge of the 2nd section, closing the 1st section and making sure that it was stuck directly on top of the book block. I repeated this with the remaining signatures.

I the tipped in the end papers by running a fine line of glue (3mm) along the spine edge of the end papers ad adhered them to the corresponding edges of the book block, front a back, flattening with the bone folder as I went.

I added another layer of glue to the spine of the bootblack, making sure to stipple it in. While waiting for it to dry, I cut the bookmark ribbon and the end bands, and glued them to the top and bottom of the spine. I then cut the scrim to size by centring it on the spine (sitting between the two kettle stitches), glued it to the book block and stippled it with a brush before leaving to dry.

Make the cover

I cut the boards with the grain and 6 mm higher than the book block and 3mm narrower (to allow for the opening hinge). I cut the spine card (also with the grain) the height of the boards and the width of the depth of a board and 1/2 + the depth of the book block, measured at the fore edge. I used a 2mm board so the spine card was 3mm +the depth of the book block.

I marked up the quarter spacing on the cover, 3.5 cm for A5 book. To mark the corners, I took the metal right angled triangle and put it long ways so the corners of the board and the triangle matched (see diagram). I then measured 1/4 of the way up the corner (3.5 cm) and marked it with a dot. I repeated for the remaining three corners.

I then put the boards together and placed the triangle on the midway point with the long edges parallel to the bottom of the the covers (see diagram). Making sure that the triangle was centred in the middle and the 2 1/4 point dots were lining up along the edges, I drew up the edges of the triangle to create the corners. I repeated it for the remaining two corners.

Cutting the buckram

Spine cloth = A5 = 3.5 cm x 2 = 7cm

+ 1.9 = 8.9 cm (spine card)

+ 1.2 = 10.1 cm (spacer width)

+ 0.1 = 10.2 cm (error space)

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10.2 cm wide

A5 = 27 cm + 4 = 31 cm (turn ins) high

A5 spine cloth = 10.2 cm wide x 31 cm high

Buckram corners

A5 = cut 2 10 cm squares and then cut in half along the diagonal.

Attaching the spine cloth

I glued up one board from the spine edge to the pencil line and placed the buckram onto it so that I could just see the pencil line. After bone folding, I used a large ruler at the top of the cover to keep everything straight and glued the spine card, placing it 6mm away from the board and aligning it with the top and bottom. I glued the 2nd board and placed it 6mm away from the spine card, ensuring this is the board with the 1/4 line drawn on the front and back. I turned over the board so the cloth was face up and bone folded the material to ensure a smooth finish. I glued and turned in the top and bottom edges of the buckram.

I then glued up to the pencil line of the corners and put the buckram triangles onto these spaces, bone folding as I went to ensure no air gaps. I trimmed any excess to 1.5 cm and cut my corners at a 45 degree angle, using a 3mm block for my pig's ear turn in. I glued and turned in the corner edges, top and bottom first and then the fore edge.

Making the paper overlay

Using tracing paper, I made a template, leaving at least 2mm overlap on both of the corners and the spine cloth. Using this template, I cut 2 pieces of decorative paper, pattern side up, and glued these onto the boards. It was rather difficult to see in the papers exactly so I marked the 2mm overlap onto the buckram using an awl.

I wrapped the cover around the book block, weighted it and left a few minutes to dry before casing in.

Casing in

Placing the book block square into the cover, I tore a sheet of magazine paper into 1/4s and placed 2 overlapping sections underneath the 1st end paper. I glued under the scrim onto the back on the end paper, then gently patted the scrim down with a brush. Working from the centre outwards I carefully glued over the full end paper to the edges.

Holding the book block in position, I brought the opposite board up, at the same time lifting the end paper and pressing the fore edge of the paper into place, along the top 1.5 cm, then bringing the cover down as if closing the book.

I then turned the book over and lifted up the cover to check that there were no air bubbled. For the 2nd side, I repeated the gluing process and held down the end paper with a thumb, closing the cover over it, aligning the corners.

I cut some greaseproof paper and placed it between each cover and end papers so that the moisture did not seep into the book block. I left the completed book under a nipping press to dry overnight.